| ■ Fabric Dictionary |
The fashion industry's supply chain is immensely complicated. When big clothing retailers and brands design their collections, it is difficult for them to oversee every single step of production, especially when many stages of production are outsourced without their knowledge. With that being said, understanding the environmental impact of fabrics is a great way to start understanding how your clothes can make a difference. So, we've compiled a list of fabrics in alphabetical order for you to better understand your clothes.
Please note that this list only discusses the eco properties of each fabric and does not take into consideration the ethical production of clothing, so while some fast fashion retailers use fabrics like organic cotton, there is likely no assurance that the fabrics are ethically sourced, fair trade or processed with non-toxic or conventional dyes. |
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Eco-Friendly
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Can be (but isn't always) eco-friendly |
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Alpaca
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Fun fact, alpacas don't require insecticides to be injected into their fleece, don't require antibiotic treatments (unless they're ill), don't eat much, aren't killed for their wool, and are fairly self-sufficient (which makes them much more environmentally friendly than a lot of their goat friends). Alpaca wool is also very long-lasting, wrinkle/flame-resistant, and extremely durable (so expect to have any alpaca wool pieces for a very long time).
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Acrylic
Like polyester and nylon, acrylic is a petroleum-derived synthetic fabric that contributes to the release of half a million tonnes of plastic microfibers into the ocean every year when washed and thrown away. The key ingredient of acrylic is acrylonitrile which is a known carcinogen and mutagen. The manufacture of acrylic fabric involves highly toxic substances which are very dangerous to the health of factory workers. Acrylic is also not easily recycled nor biodegradable. Some acrylic pieces are also highly flammable and may fuzz or pill easily.
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Acetate
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Similarly to rayon and other cellulose-based fibers, Acetate (and Triacetate) plastics are made from wood fibers and undergo extensive and harsh chemical processing that also requires a lot of water. Yet since it is natural and renewable, it is a more eco-friendly alternative to petroleum-based plastics typically used in eyewear.
If the acetate is bio-acetate (plasticizer-free) and manufactured in a regulated environment, you can be fairly confident that the workers are properly protected and that the waste is purified to prevent damage to the environment. On the other hand, if the acetate is made in a poorly regulated facility, it is likely that the workers exposed to the processing's harsh chemicals will suffer long-term health effects and that the waste is dumped without purification.
Acetate films and fibers will biodegrade eventually, although how long this takes depends on where they are discarded.
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BAMBOO
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Although easy to grow without pesticides and quick to replenish itself, "bamboo rayon" fabric (which is the silky soft bamboo you see in clothing) is an extremely toxic to process called the "viscose process". The chemicals used in this process are highly toxic and a risk to human health. Furthermore, approximately 50% of hazardous waste from bamboo rayon production cannot be reused and recaptured and ends up back in the environment.
Some claim that bamboo is antibacterial, which has yet to be scientifically proven. Also, although the growing of bamboo is environmentally friendly and sustainable, the majority of bamboo is grown in China and there isn't much information regarding how intensively bamboo is being harvested, what land has been cleared to make way for the bamboo, and if pesticides have been used to maximize outputs. With this being said, there are now newer methods which produce organic bamboo fabrics without the use of toxic chemicals.
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Cashmere
Known for its incredible softness, cashmere fibres come from combing out the under-hairs of Kashmir goats, a breed native to the Himalayas but now are raised worldwide. From an eco-perspective, cashmere is long-lasting and highly durable. However, cheap cashmere has become popular and unfortunately is produced by treatment with chemicals and carcinogenic dyes. Cashmere may also be blended with other fibres, such as non-sustainable polyester. Regardless, a truly green cashmere piece will likely be an lifelong investment.
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Cotton (Non-organic)
Uses more pesticides than any other crop in the world, which has severe impacts on both the environment and cotton farmers. These pesticides can also affect local eco-systems and remain on garments long enough to irritate consumers' skin. Inorganic cotton also requires more water than organic cotton from irrigation due to poor soil quality. In fact, one conventional cotton t-shirt represents 2 700 litres of water and 1/3 of a pound of chemicals. Conventional cotton also accounts for 10% of all agricultural chemicals, and 25% of all pesticides usage each year. Low-yield crop.
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Cotton (Organic)
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While water usage is still quite high for organic cotton and it is still a considerably low-yield crop, its production is much safer for cotton farmers due to its lack of toxic chemical treatment. Its production also promotes and enhances biodiversity and biological cycles by maintaining healthy soils and environmentally friendly farming practices. In order for cotton to quality as organic, there are specific procedures and regulations for producing and handling organic crops that differ in each country.
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Cotton (Recycled)
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The most sustainable version of cotton, recycled or upcycled cotton is made with post-consumer and post-industrial cotton waste. It has the potential to help reduce water and energy consumption, as well as help keep cotton clothes out of landfill.
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Cupro
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A more sustainable and ethical and vegan alternative to silk, cupro is a regenerated cellulose fabric made from cotton waste. Essentially, cupro is created using the small silky cotton fibres, known as cotton linter, that are too small to spin. The linter is then dissolved into a cuprammonium solution before being spun into a fibre. Like tencel and modal, cupro is a plant-based material that is chemically processed and manufactured in a closed-loop system, which means that chemicals and wastewater can be reused. Cupro is also machine washable, which is much more eco-friendly than dry-cleaning.
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Econyl
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A recycled fabric created by Italian firm Aquafil that uses synthetic waste such as industrial plastic, fishing nets from the ocean and waste fabric. This synthetic waste is turned into a new nylon yarn (that has the same qualities as virgin nylon) in a regenerative process that forms a closed-loop. This process creates less waste and uses less water than traditional virgin nylon production processes. However, like other synthetic fabrics, Econyl can still shed microplastics when washed.
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Hemp
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One of the oldest fibers in the world, hemp is a versatile fabric that keeps you warm in the winter and cool in the summer, and gets softer the more you wash it. Hemp is a high-yield crop that is easily grown without the use of any chemical pesticide, and can be easily blended with other fabrics. Hemp, however, is not very well regulated which means there's very little monitoring of the chemicals the crop may have come in contact with when it was grown or manufactured (so choose organic hemp when possible). Furthermore, the claim that hemp is antibacterial (this claim has also been made for bamboo) has yet to be authenticated.
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Linen
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Another natural fiber that humans have been growing for centuries, Linen is made from flax plant fibers and requires very little pesticides. Linen is fully biodegradable when untreated or dyed with natural dyes, can withstand high heats, absorbs moisture without holding bacteria, and becomes softer the more it is washed. However, one thing to watch out for are non-sustainable linen blends or cheap, chemical treated linen garments (which you will often find at fast fashion retailers).
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Lyocell
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Natural, man-made and wood-based cellulose fiber made from sustainable tree farms. Lyocell fabric makes use of nanotechnology in a closed-loop process that recovers 99% of solvents used. The process greatly reduces carbon emissions, water usage and like most renewable fibers, lyocell is biodegradable and compostable in soil and marine conditions. While production of lyocell fibers is generally environmentally sustainable and eco-friendly, the transformation of lyocell fibers into fabric and clothes can employ the same harsh and even toxic chemicals, dyes and processes used in conventional garments. Lyocell requires a lot less dye than cotton.
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Nylon
Like polyester and acrylic, nylon is a petroleum-derived synthetic fabric that contributes to the release of half a million tonnes of plastic microfibers into the ocean every year when washed and thrown away. Nylon is non-biodegradable and releases nitrous oxide when manufactured (which is a greenhouse gas that is 310 times stronger than carbon dioxide and causes global warming).
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Modal
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A variation of rayon, modal is a high-yield cellulose biodegradable fibre made from beech trees and is known for its high wet strength and extra softness. Modal is wear resistant and can be machine washed and tumble dried without shrinking. Modal also absorbs 50% more moisture (perspiration) than cotton and released it into the air quicker, and therefore remains odor-free and requires less energy from washing than conventional cotton garments. However, like many other fabrics, modal can be dyed with harsh chemicals (many containing heavy metals) that are routinely flushed into the developing world's waterways. Lenzing Modal®, on the other hand, is made from sustainably harvested beech trees and is bleached with an environmentally friendly method.
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Pinatex
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A vegan leather alternatives, Piñatex is made from pineapple leaf fibre (a food by-product) and manufactured by Ananas Anam. Unlike other vegan leather alternatives which are petroleum by-products that are processed with harmful toxic chemicals, Piñatex is natural and sustainable and helps the farming communities that grow pineapples.
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Qmonos
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A more sustainable and ethical alternative to silk and nylon, Qmonos is a synthetic spider silk that has recently been created through the fusion of spider silk genes and microbes. This fabric is extremely durable, lightweight, flexible and entirely degradable. No spiders are farmed or harmed in the making of this fabric.
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Polyester
Like acrylic and nylon, polyester is a petroleum-derived synthetic fabric that contributes to the release of half a million tonnes of plastic microfibers into the ocean every year when washed and thrown away.. Non-biodegradable and will last a very long time in landfills. However, although it still requires heavy processing, companies are now finding ways to create polyester out of recycled plastic bottles or even recycled polyester fabric. This fabric is greenest when it is vintage.
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Polyester (Recycled)
A synthetic fabric that makes use of existing plastic such as old water bottles. It is made either via mechanical or chemical processes that eventually turn it into yarn. These processes require around 50-60% less energy compared to virgin polyester (according to a 2017 study by the Swiss Federal Office for the Environment). While some applaud the use of recycled plastic fabrics as a way to divert plastic waste and lessen our dependence on petroleum, others see these fabrics as a distraction from what the material actually is; a petroleum by-product that will eventually end up in a landfill. Recycling also has its limitations so many recycled polyester fabrics are blended with virgin polyester or cotton. Also, plastic cannot be recycled forever as the fibers can lose strength and needs to be mixed with virgin fibers.
There are also concerns about the use of non BPA free water bottles and plastics when making recycled polyester, as BPA is toxic for our bodies. This fabric is not biodegradable and still requires more energy than processing natural fibers like hemp, wool and both organic and non-organic cotton.
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Ramie
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One of the oldest natural plant fibers (it was used in ancient Egypt!), Ramie can be harvested up to 3-4 times a year and requires significantly less water than other crops like cotton. Ramie is naturally resistant to bacteria, mildew and molds, and are able to grow healthily without the use of toxic herbicides or pesticides. Ramie is also one of the strongest natural fibers (up to 8 times stronger than conventional cotton), is highly absorbent, and stain resistant.
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Rayon
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Known as "artificial silk," rayon is a biodegradable and versatile fiber with the same comfort properties as natural fibers that is easily dyed in a wide range of colours. Rayon is produced from a variety of renewable cellulosic plants (such as pine trees, bamboo and beech trees). However, rayon manufacturing processes are generally not considered environmentally friendly, as a range of polluting chemicals and heavy metals are employed. Approximately 50% of hazardous waste created during rayon production cannot be reused and recaptured and ends up going back to the environment. There have also been concerns raised regarding deforestation for the production of rayon.
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Silk
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Although inherently natural because it is made by silk worms (and not chemical-based synthetic processing), there is a drawback. In the production of silk processing, silk worms are generally thrown into a vat of boiling water once their hard work is complete. However, in the case of peace or vegan silk, this kind of silk is made from the worm casings gathered only after the moths have emerged and moved on. Many silks are also dyed with toxic chemicals.
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Silk (Organic/Raw)
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Also known as raw silk, organic silk is created without the use of any treatments or chemicals that include insecticides, pesticides and synthetic fertilizers. Organic and raw silk have the versatility to be blended with many different fibers that will help improve its drape and elasticity. Unlike typical silk manufacturing, the production of organic and raw silk allows for silkworms to live out their full lives and naturally die. Raw silk and organic silk dyed naturally are both biodegradable.
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Soy Fabrics
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Soy fabric is made from the byproducts of soy oil processing and is a good option for bras and underwear because of its soft and silky texture. Soy fabrics can be certified organic, sustainable, and eco-friendly depending on its processing and sourcing. However, watch out for soy blends, which include polyester and inorganic cotton.
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Spandex (Elastane)
A synthetic polymer fabric (like polyester) known for its elasticity, spandex is more durable and stronger than natural rubber and blends well with other fabrics. Similarly to other synthetic fabrics, spandex requires a lot of energy to create and the use of toxic chemicals. It is also created from polyurethane, a known carcinogen.
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Tencel
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Tencel is a branded type of lyocell fibers that is extremely gentle and made from the wood pulp of Eucalyptus trees that is both biodegradable and recyclable (fun fact: eucalyptus grows quickly without pesticides, fertilizers, genetic manipulation or irrigation). Producing tencel involves less energy, water usage, and fabric than other conventional fabrics, and doesn't get bleached as well. Tencel's manufacturing process is an extremely environmentally friendly process unlike that of other wood-pulp based fibers (rayon and modal). Tencel, like some of the other wood pulp-based fibers, also absorbs excess liquid (perspiration) at a rate of 50% more than cotton and quickly releases it into the atmosphere. In doing so, tencel's moisture management does not give bacteria a chance to grow and remains odor-free for multiple wearings (much longer than cotton). This means fewer washings, which allow you to save on energy and water costs. Furthermore, Tencel is naturally wrinkle-free. However, not all tencel fabric is made from sustainable wood, and can also be dyed with toxic chemicals.
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Viscose
A wood pulp-based or cotton linter-based fibre that is not inherently polluting or toxic. However, during its manufacture, the wood pulp is treated during a highly polluting process with toxic chemical, such as sulphuric acid and caustic soda. Because of the mass manufacture of viscose for fast fashion retailers, the creation of viscose has devastating impacts on local communities, the environment and garment workers. There have been concerns raised regarding the impact of wood pulp production on forests, local populations and vulnerable animals and habitats.
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Wool (Non-Organic)
Scouring (washing) and processing wool is a very taxing process, in which millions of litres of water are used and harmful detergents and chemicals contaminate the environment (more information to come). Although wool is a renewable and durable fabric that comes from sheep, which are generally environmentally low-impact and self-sufficient animals, heavy environmental repercussions and animal cruelty result when wool is mass produced. Sheep are capable of easily overgrazing, especially in sensitive environments, and are generally dipped in toxic insecticides to ward off ticks and lice. In the past ten years, the textile industry, along with animal ethics groups, have lobbied against the wool industry, taking a stand against the unethical treatment of sheep. This has resulted in the increased production of both organic and ethical wool.
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Wool (Organic)
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Although each country maintains their own standards of "organic wool", typically organic wool is made according to the Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS; see below). Furthermore, livestock should be managed according to organic or holistic principles, and the processing of raw wool should use newer, more benign processes versus harmful descaling and scouring chemicals.
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